In the window of every bar in Priego, you’ll see a proudly posted sign: “Caracoles Aqui!!” Could it be a new pastry? Maybe a new drink? A quick minute to the Spanish dictionary. Oh no. These Priegoans are excited about snails. My roommate got invited to dine on the slippery little guys. She learned that there are people whose job is to actually go out “panning” for snails. Brush the dirt off and sprinkle the salt on. Always the salt…
The Spanish love their salt. Among other popular foods here:
tapas- the tradition of ordering several small plates and sharing them- one of my favorite parts of the Spanish culture
cafe con leche- basically an espresso with milk- this is my favorite drink in the morning
tortilla espanola- a quiche-like pie of egg, potato, onion, and lots of oil. Most Spaniards here actually save the excess oil after cooking, pour it back into the bottle and use it again. I mean I’m all for recycling.
pinchos- a mixture of nuts and sunflower seeds
gazpacho- a cold tomato based soup, but I like salmorejo even more- like gazpacho but thicker. It’s best in Cordoba, or on the beach in Estepona.
olives- being surrounded by olive trees as far as the eye can see, I can understand how this became a staple favorite. Many of my students’ parents pick olives and cherries and bottle them for work.
empananas- little pouches of bread stuffed with vegetables, chicken, or sometimes they’re sweet with candied fruit and sugar
tostada- my favorite breakfast- thick toasted french bread with a spread of tomate paste, olive oil, and salt. You will find this in every Spanish bar, cafe, or restaurant you visit.
corquettas- fried balls. If they sound bad, that’s cause they are.
bocadillos- the Spanish sandwich. Every day at 11:30 mystudents have recreo and they all pull out their little aluminum wrapped sandwich, usually filled with ham or tuna. They don’t eat “real” lunch until 2 or 230.
churros- fried bread that you ever so slightly dip in a taza of hot milky chocolate, making sure to fill every crevice with the dark gooey greatness
dulce de leche- a caramelish topping added to crepes or sometimes icecream and other desserts
nutella- their version of peanut butter. But if you ask me, you can’t put a questionable chocolate flavored cream in a jar and call it peanut butter. Where’s the justice?
vino, always vino, and beers like Cruzcampo or my favorite, Alhambra of which you can find the men in the bus station drinking along with shots at the ripe hour of 9am
JAMON
At a dinner party the other day my friend was offered cow’s tongue discretely housing egg and ham. Always finding a way to add that ham.
paella- a dish that origniated in Valencia. It’s rice, saffron, veggies, and usually shrimp or meat.
I miss Mexican food at Mi Pueblo along with a Dos Equis that comes out piping hot before you’ve even made a dent in the chip bowl. Crunchy peanut butter. Black bean burgers. Blueberries. Pancakes with bananas and real syrup. Mini bag popcorn. English muffins. Cottage cheese. Black beans. Macaroni and cheese, the kind my mom used to make with the bread crumbs on top.
It’s true that living in a pueblo I have limited access to food. You can find so many different things in the larger cities like Granada and Malaga. And they certainly don’t cater to vegetarians. But since being here I have learned to cook more, and to be a little more creative. This isn’t to say I’m not looking forward to having an oven again. I can smell the chocolate chip cookies now.
And the tradition the Spaniards have of sitting for hours over food and drink is one I love, because it reminds me of dinner with my own family. Mom yelling up the stairs. Smells wafting up. Talking over each other. Dad telling a story that I come just short of believing. And they don’t do coffee to go. You will get a strange look if you ask for it “para llevar”. If you can’t sit to chat, you don’t stop for coffee. I like that.
Time for the small things. Food, and talk, and family. Which, when you really think about it, are the biggest things of all.
